Posted by Steph in
About Chustmi, News, Products/Advice, on Thursday, March 19. 2015 at
DAILY EYE CARE - You can expect to spend 5-10 minutes daily on Eye Care.
Eyes tear every day all day, especially during high activity, and then when it dries it turns to a crusty residue on the fur. If it is not cleaned at least two times a day, the fur around the eyes will get wet and stain and even get crusty; a red color or clear goopy; it will gather and gob up; it can cause eye infections (you get the idea - if not, do a google search about it and see examples). I think if you wash twice a day, you might be able to get away with not using the powder, but with white fur, I'd recommend powdering every day if you want it to look pretty. Items:
Toilet Paper [To absorb and remove tears at eyes - DAB (don't rub) several times a day. Toilet paper absorbs, Kleenex just smears.]
Wash Cloth (Clean unsoftened [no Downy or dryer sheet - it may cause irritation]) and warm plain water on half the cloth [to wash fur around eyes - and then dry lightly with the end of the cloth you did not get wet] NOTE: you will see in breeder-care videos, castlebaths videos, and other places, that they use a cat-safe soap to clean the face....you do not have to do this daily if you have kept up with the fur....that is for extreme cleanup from caked-on stains and tear duct drainage goop. That is why I talk about water. The water is just cleaning a tiny bit of tears from the past 12 hours (i.e. two times a day).
Breeder Care Professional Eye Grooming Powder (breeder-care.com also they are on facebook) + small make up brush (Target - examples: Brush 1823 ELF Eye Crease brush (great for kittens, just right size) and EcoTools Eye Enhancing Duo Set (but I can't seem to find them in my Target anymore - possible equivalent might be the e.l.f. Defining Eye Brush)) [for touchup around the eyes/nose (even around the cheeks/chin/bib due to drinking water stains), helps keep moisture and stains away (or help clean it up if it has already occurred) - a TINY bit once a day is what I use and the container I bought is lasting a LONG time. Do the powder care AFTER toilet paper dab and wash with a cloth and slight rub dry with a dry part of the wash cloth.]
So, I use Breeder-Care. When you buy a kitten from me, I will give you a sample of a different company's powder for you to try out (I'm tempted to not even give it out - it is practically worthless). For me, I've had way more success with Breeder-Care. I actually used Anna's powder on Ace (2015 kitten) and it did NO good at all (even three times a day after washing three times a day with water)....so I washed Ace's face two times a day, then put powder on before bed, woke up next morning to NO red crustiness at all! Really, if you can afford it, get the Breeder-Care powder! It is so worth it, and lasts so long, I'm still on same jar I bought a couple of years ago and have about 1/2 left.
DAILY FUR CARE - You can expect to spend 30-60 minutes daily (or every other day) on Fur Care.
Fur MATTS so easily in the exotic longhair AND exotic shorthair and Persian cat, combing is a must - and exotic shorthair SHED. The greasiest parts of a cat are under their chin, behind their ears, under their chin/their bib, under their legs, and their belly. Be sure to comb there every day. The body I have gotten away with doing every other day. Items:
Whisker City Pet Comb (Whisker City is a brand at Petsmart) [With a long toothed comb, comb entire body, even belly, under legs where matting begins - at least every other day.] There are other combs I have not tried.
Slicker Cat Brush [EXOTIC SHORTHAIR ONLY (brushing longhair could increase matting) - Brush during shedding season often.] There are other brushes I have not tried.
Whisker City Waterless Detangling Cat Shampoo (Petsmart) [Spray on tangled or thick fur AS NEEDED during combing.]
Cat Wipes (Walmart or Petsmart, etc.) [I use them on butts and feet from soft stool / litter box messes, or to calm shedding fur.]
Shaver (or curved ended dull scissors) ONLY IF YOU HAVE EXPERIENCE!!!! I trim the butt fur of my longhair cats about every 6 weeks to reduce stool messes.
WEEKLY AND MONTHLY NAIL CARE - trim nails, usually back nails monthly and front nails much more often. Please get instruction on how to trim nails if you have never done it before.
I do like this article.
This article too.
Whisker City Pet Nail Scissors (Petsmart)
NEVER DECLAW A CAT! Buy (or make) scratching posts and toys and keep the nails trimmed. They like carpet texture or rope or twine. Train them if you find they scratch the furniture or carpet. Pick them up, and move them while they are doing it, to the item you want them to do it on. Also, I find putting a scratching post at ends of couches keeps the cat from scratching on my furniture. Also, many cats like to sleep high, so cat furniture, although expensive, is loved by the cat. The first photo is a favorite of the littlest kittens and Bliss as well
MONTHLY EAR CARE - I wipe inside the ears (not down into the ears!) monthly - several different products or methods, ask vet for advice. I use a 'baby soft toothbrush' to brush off the wax in the UPPER EAR FLAPS ONLY, NEVER DOWN INTO THE EAR!!! PLEASE ASK VET FOR ADVICE or demonstration. There are ears wipes and ear q-tip things you'll see at Petsmart....I have not had success with these items.
WEEKLY/MONTHLY TEETH CARE - brush the teeth, ask vet for advice.
BIANNUAL FUR CARE - you can expect to spend 2-3 hours for one bath and dry.
I recommend a full body bath (with water and pet shampoo) every 6 months. You can take your cat to a professional groomer (one who has had training) or do it at home yourself. I have NO grooming training, just experience and example from my mentor. The information I offer is NOT professional information. I have no training.
Only plan to bathe your cat yourself if you own a pet dryer - do not use a blow dryer that you use on your hair, as it is heat based. A pet dryer is forced air based. A cat can get cold and take a really long time to dry if you don't dry the fur. I recommend a Metro Air Force 2 speed. Do a search on Amazon. There is a cheaper model too, I believe.
So, anyway, the bath can also be done much more often if you wish. When the fur starts to separate and get the curly look, then it is getting greasy (you'll notice this under the legs and then the belly mostly and first). A full body bath can be done in a clean sink; my kitchen sink is big enough. I bleach the sink hours before I do the bath (making sure I get all the bleach off).
Here is what you'll need: Proper drain for your kitchen sink (to catch fur). Nail clipper. Comb (and brush if you are doing a shorthair cat). De-matter comb. Shaver (mustache trimmer and/or pet shaver). Cat toothbrush. Baby soft baby toothbrush. Two full size bath towels, and two hand towels, and a wash cloth. Pet shampoo (Petsmart, for example). Dryer. Eye grooming powder.
Here are the steps I recommend:
(1) Trim all the nails.
(2) Comb your cat's fur, very well. Get all excess loose hair off/out. Do not bath a cat with matts. De-matt the fur first (with combing, with fingers, and with a shaver as necessary - for small matts I use a moustache trimmer/shaver - for larger matts I need a pet shaver usually).
(3) Brush your cat's teeth with a cat toothbrush.
(4) Clean the wax off the inside of your cat's ears (do not go down into the ears - see my notes above under ear care).
(5) With a wash cloth and water, lightly wet the wash cloth, clean your cats eyes (with plain water) and wash her face (with plain water).
(6) Set your cat in the sink. If your cat is skittish and/or wanting to jump away, you can grab the scruff at the back of the neck. One client of mine has used a harness with her Exotic Longhair cats and hooked it to the sink to help her. The more you bathe your cat, the more 'used to' it your cat will be, and thus, hopefully, the more calm. I bathe my kittens several times while they are growing up with me; many of them tolerate their baths very well. With a slow flow of water, warm (check on your wrist), wet the fur thoroughly. Do not wet the head and never wet inside the ears. Use a dry hand towel to dry the face and ears if your cat starts to shake her head and gets wet.
(7) Put shampoo in your hands and lather it in your hands and then work it into the fur - do not put shampoo directly on/into the cat fur (it will be so hard to wash/get it out). Shampoo from neck down. Don't forget between the toes. Do the tail, and then the butt last.) I usually do all the shampooing with only an inch or two of warm water in the bottom of my sink.
(8) With the drain plugged in the bottom of the sink, rinse your cat. I like to use a spray from my faucet instead of the constant flow the whole time, since my kitchen faucet has these two settings. It seems to help get the shampoo out all the way to the skin/base of the fur. Rinse and rinse. Thoroughly rinse to get all the shampoo out. I let my cat soak in the water, a little bit then.
(9) With the drain open, not plugged, rinse again, like above. Rinse and rinse! Get all the shampoo out.
(10) With a wash cloth and water, lightly wet the wash cloth, clean your cats eyes (with plain water) and wash her face (with plain water).
(11) Sometimes I will do the belly and legs and butt a second washing.
(12) Use one towel to wrap your cat in and get as much water out with patting her all around. Then, using the second towel, do it again. Get as much water out as you can before using the dryer. It will go much faster.
(13) Using the pet dryer, dry. You'll notice your cat is dry when, as the dryer blows air on the fur, the fur is no longer curly. It should be straight. When you dry, I recommend drying the butt first, have a dry hand towel ready, around your cat....the cat may pee! Then I dry the belly, legs, etc. Then I do the tail. Then I do the sides and then the back.
(14) Sometimes I will do a quick comb through after my cat is all dry, but totally not necessary.
(15) I use eye grooming powder around the eyes (as noted above under eye care).
With clean up, I make sure to get all the fur out of the drain in my kitchen sink! I then sanitize my sink and around my sink. I get the fur off my towels before washing them in the washing machine.
LITTER BOX - I do like what I use because it keeps that clay dust off my cats fur, and when poured, feline pine pellets have just a tiny bit of pine dust but not that puff of clay dust you get with scoopable clays:
Feline Pine litter pellets - I recommend without the arm and hammer added (So Phresh Odor Neutralizing Pine Pellet Cat Litter from PETCO....I have not used a Petsmart one called "ExquisiCat Naturals Pine Cat Litter" but I think it may be similar to the Petco one I use). I buy at Petco - they seem to be the only ones that carry a brand I prefer now - Target, Petsmart, and Amazon no longer ship or carry what I like. I do not scoop. I slide the litter box back and forth on the floor to level out the litter if the cat has made a pile from covering up the poop. When there is poop, I use a disposable doggie bag (Pet Waste Disposal Bags - Dog Poop Pick Up Bags from Amazon (but Target, Petsmart, or the like have these too)) over my hand, pick up the poop, and pull the bag up over my hand, tie the bag, and dispose outside. I just love not having to scoop. When the litter has turned to mostly pine dust, I empty the litter box all into the garbage and put new in. Sweeping around the litter box helps keep the area clean, but I don't have pine litter tracked through the house. I use an open durable plastic litterbox, jumbo size with high edges (Petco "jumbo" - it is about $20). My picture shows two. I highly recommend two. [Please note, Petco in my area has now changed to a cheaper plastic litterbox for this jumbo size, no longer the durable plastic, so it is now under $10. I am very disappointed.] You can change them out monthly due to needing to wash and bleach and dry them.
I use Royal Canin dry kitten food (for under 12 months of age). I don't like to use canned soft food after 6 months of age, because it keeps their stool smelly and more soft and messy on the fur (especially the long coated one). However, I do suggest canned to help reduce fur balls if you find you have a cat throwing up fur balls often. Sometimes, though, gravy has bothered my cats intestines. I serve canned food on a small saucer plate. I also recommend raised food dishes, and definitely stainless steel or ceramic, not plastic. The dishes in the stand below are not the ones I have.
I thought I would add a note about another food I use. It is called Iams Hairball Proactive Health. The reason I started using this was because one of my kittens had consistent soft stools and occasional diarrhea. His fecal floatations came back negative for worms or parasites. He wasn't eating toxins in the house (i.e. plants or people food). There was just no reason. Different vets wanted me to try different things, which were (1) probiotic (2) medications (which had been tried but they wanted me to continue) - I said no (3) referral to internist (I said no - we hadn't tried diet changes - I was insistent that some food would help him (4) different foods (add pumpkin (unfortunately my youngest son has a 99% allergy to pumpkin!) - so no....add fiber (tried Metamucil added to his soft food - helped a little)....tried to take away his gravy soft food - helped a little) .... (Royal Canin (Indoor or Special) - didn't change anything, and then....Royal Canin Gastrointestinal (actually made him vomit and just changed his stool to a different color), and then they wanted me to try a hypoallergenic food (it was expensive and my other cats eat same food (I do free feeding all day instead of meal feeding - so I wasn't quite ready - there was ONE more thing I wanted to try)....Iams Hairball....I read an article (on pandecats.com) that said it can possibly take away soft stools and diarrhea in cats that are otherwise healthy. I was like, OKAY, please please please work. I've battled this for months. And guess what? It worked! Stool is correct color, it is formed and firm, and he's not throwing up. I COULDN'T BE HAPPIER. Also, it doesn't seem to make my other cat's stools too hard (the one that shares a bowl with him and didn't have loose stools before eating Iams Hairball). And, by the way, the cat with loose stools and diarrhea did not have any hairballs to begin with. So, I thought I would share, in case anyone has this issue with any cat they own.
CRATE / CARRIER - I recommend you use a crate or carrier in a car for traveling, even short trips. Just use the appropriate size for the cat: the cat should be able to stand, and turn around, important for longer trips, not just to the vet. It might be good for you to get an airplane approved bag if you think you might ever carry-on your cat to go out of town. I use the SHERPA brand and love the bag!! The second picture below is my actual bag with a kitten in that was at the airport ready to board the airplane:
POPULAR TOYS - These are toys that are popular in my house: Crazy Circle, Cat Tunnel, laser pointer, balls, etc....
CAT BED - You'll notice I left out cat bed....my cats usually do not sleep in them as older kittens or adults, but the small kittens have. Sometimes my cats like to share Jetta's cat bed (I mean dog bed) with her (Jetta is my dog).
PLEASE REMEMBER THESE ARE JUST MY THOUGHTS AND MY USES AND MY EXPERIENCE AND THEY ARE NEVER THE ONLY WAY TO TAKE CARE OF YOUR KITTEN OR CAT. ADVICE FROM A VETERINARIAN, PROFESSIONAL GROOMER, OTHER BREEDERS, AND FRIENDS (AND YOUR OWN EXPERIENCE) ARE VERY MUCH ADVISED!
THESE ARE MY OWN WORDS - DO NOT COPY OR USE THEM IN ANY WAY!