Smudge is available for adoption!
Posted by Steph in
About Chustmi, News, SD-Nov16, on Thursday, December 29. 2016 at
He's a blue mctabby and white male exotic shorthair kitten.
If you would like to be his forever family, please read FAQ (link up there). Then if you still want to, contact me WITH AN INTRODUCTION OF YOURSELF, and for an application.
Applications
Posted by Steph in
About Chustmi, News, SD-Nov16, on Wednesday, December 28. 2016 at
Remember - I AM taking applications. Next week I will take deposits. I believe Smudge will be available, but if the other waiting list families back out, or decide they want Smudge, then Niko and Mew will be available.
Please read FAQ - it offers so much information and saves you time emailing me. If you email me, especially without an introduction, I will respond with the application.
Frequently Asked Questions about Chustmi Cattery in Arizona
Posted by Steph in
About Chustmi, on Monday, November 21. 2016 at
How long have you been breeding?
How did you come up with the cattery name Chustmi?
You haven't been breeding long. How do you know what you're doing?
What breed of cats do you own?
What color cats do you have for sale?
How do you socialize your kittens?
What litter do you use?
Is your home smoke-free?
What do you feed your cats and kittens?
Do you cage your cats?
How much do your kittens cost?
Are your kittens healthy?
Do you give a health guarantee? Do you have a seller-buyer contract?
When can I bring my kitten home?
Do you ship?
How do I buy a cat from you?
Do you hold a cat for me if I am interested in one?
What forms of payment do you accept?
Can I come see the kitten in person, in your home?
What do I get along with my kitten for the purchase price?
What do I need to purchase before my kitten is ready to come home?
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ALL INFORMATION ON THIS PAGE IS SUBJECT TO CHANGE AT ANY TIME AS I LEARN AND GROW IN MY HOBBY. FINAL INFORMATION WILL BE DISCUSSED THROUGH EMAIL AND IN THE CONTRACT WE BOTH SIGN.
How long have you owned Persian cats?
23 years
How long have you been breeding?
My cattery name CHUSTMI became registered with CFA on April 29, 2013. I began breeding in May 2013 after my stud turned one years old and I purchased two exotic shorthair females from FAITHFUL FELINES (Reece and Bliss).
How did you come up with the cattery name Chustmi?
I combined letters from my first three pet Persians: CH from Charlie (born in 1994) (lived 14 years), UST from Dusty (born in 1995) (lived 17 years), MI from Mitzy (born in 1996) (lived 16 years).
You haven't been breeding long. How do you know what you're doing?
I have a wonderful mentor that has been breeding for over 14 years and has been teaching me, guiding me, educating me, offering advice, opinions, honesty, friendship, .... I'm so lucky to have found her, or my dream wouldn't have come true. And breeding cats is a dream for me. I also have reached out to other breeders and I learn from their experiences as well. It becomes a close group of people you can text, email, or call at any hour and ask for help if need be. We also use the Internet to communicate, via Skype, and cameras with apps. I also do a lot of reading, especially at PandEcats.com.
What breed of cats do you own?
I have Persian and Exotic (Shorthair and Longhair) cats.
What color cats do you have for sale?
I breed bi-color Persians and Exotics. That is, white and another color, or calico (white and red and black). Commonly black and white, red and white, blue and white, calico, and brown tabby and white. My stud carries the dilute gene, so we can also have dilute colors such as cream and white, blue and white, and dilute calico.
How do you socialize your kittens?
My entire family loves cats and kittens. We all pet them, hold them, kiss them, play with them, and take care of their needs. I clip their nails every week, wash their faces, comb and bathe and blow dry them, play with other cats and a dog, visitors, car rides, noise, etc.
What litter do you use?
I use Feline Pine litter.
Is your home smoke-free?
Yes; none of the family smokes.
What do you feed your cats and kittens?
I use special hard food formulas made by Royal Canin, such as: Queen, Persian, Kitten, Baby Cat, Indoor and Special. I also use canned Baby Cat and canned Kitten by Royal Canin (usually when the kittens are under 6 months old).
Do you cage your cats?
I am a small cageless cattery. I have small spare rooms in my home where I can quarantine or seclude a cat for the reasons such as: new cat coming into our home (needs quarantine), queen due to give birth to her kittens (needs safety and security), and/or prevent unwanted pregnancy. Mostly the girls free roam the entire house and the stud has his own room, along with our spay to keep each other company. We also spend time with them every day and allow them out into the house every day for part of the day. For the litters of kittens, I have these cool animal tents for play pens that keeps them safe while they are young. The older they get, the more time out they get to play in a large room in my home. Then even older they will have almost full access to the rest of the house (usually just the main level, not upstairs).
How much do your kittens cost?
The prices vary, depending on quality and pedigree of the kittens. The price range is typically $850-$1000 for exotic longhair kittens and Persian kittens, and $1000-$1500 for exotic shorthair kittens, but may change at any time. The kittens are sold as pets and will be selectively neutered/spayed before leaving (this would be the case for purchasing older kittens). Occasionally I will have a kitten that is show quality or breeder quality that I'm willing to sell to a show home or small in-home breeding family (price will be over $1500 in this case)."
Are your kittens healthy?
Yes, they are healthy. Kittens do not leave my home if there is sign of illness. My cats are FELV/FIV tested negative, and up-to-date on their vaccines. I have sent DNA swabs to Veterinary Genetics Laboratory (VGL) at UC Davis to test for PKD for all my breeding cats. I only breed cats who are PKD negative! With the parents negative, the kittens are negative. This will be in a health guarantee. Also, I keep litters separate for disease control. The kittens get vaccinated while in my care and if needed, dewormed.
Do you give a health guarantee? Do you have a seller-buyer contract?
I do have a health guarantee and a seller-buyer contract. Before making your deposit, you will get these to read and initial/sign.
When can I bring my kitten home?
My kittens leave between 12-20 weeks of age (closer to 12-16 weeks), depending on how they are developing. I will determine the best time for them to leave my care.
Do you ship? Have you shipped?
My first choice is to sell my kittens in Arizona, where I live. I DO NOT SHIP CARGO; I will only ship out on an airline that has the pet safe program, like United Airlines, as they have a climate controlled area pets can be transported in. I will also sell a kitten to you if you plan to fly to Phoenix International Airport and bring the kitten back home with you in a carry-on appropriate for the kitten and what fits under the seat in front of you on the plane (see the appropriate airline guidelines on their website). It may be possible for courier / hand delivery to airports in California or Nevada, as my husband does some travel to those states for work. It may be possible for courier to other states as well; please ask me. All shipping costs are the responsibility of the Buyer and must be paid two weeks prior to day of shipping, including but not limited to the cost of the crate and health certificate (which is required if shipping with PetSafe). [I have shipped one kitten to Alaska and he arrived safely and is doing well a year later! We have hand delivered kittens to other states (CA, MO, FL....) via airplane. We have driven part way and met buyers to deliver their kitten in CA and AZ. Each transaction is individual and we have to discuss it in depth before having you sign a contract and receiving your deposit.]
How do I buy a cat from you?
After viewing my website, Facebook page, YouTube Videos, use the contact page to connect with me through email. Introduce yourself and let me know what you're looking for in a kitten.
Do you hold a cat for me if I am interested in one?
Once a kitten reaches an age where I feel comfortable taking a deposit (sometimes 6 weeks, sometimes later), I will allow a deposit to hold your chosen kitten. A $300-$500 deposit is non-refundable, except in the cases where I cancel the sale. Please be sure you are making a transaction you can and want to follow through with. Please understand, more than one person may be interested in a kitten at the same time, and it is the first person who makes the deposit who will have the kitten held for them. For instance, if you are in AZ and want to come see a kitten in person, but a person in Michigan also wants said kitten and makes a deposit, they may make it prior to your visit. Please be aware, I can cancel the sale at any time for any reason (however, I would try not to do this as I know there's an emotional bond even if the sale hasn't been completed).
What forms of payment do you accept?
For the non-refundable deposit: Money order or check by mail, or cash in person.For the final payment of balance due: Cash in person at pickup/delivery, or money order or cashier's check by mail only if there is airplane shipping involved, which is due two weeks before the travel date.
Can I come see the kitten in person, in your home?
Short answer: No. We can discuss you visiting the kittens in my home via email, but please note, the kittens must have had two vaccines (therefore the kitten would be at least 12 weeks old!), my husband has to be home with me, and the visit must remain short (less than half an hour). I am not a pet store. I take lots of videos and photos so you can get a feel for the kitten(s). A home visit should be to confirm that you're interested in placing a deposit on your chosen kitten - but another person may have already reserved the kitten.
What do I get along with my kitten for the purchase price?
The kitten goes home with the following: A small bag of Royal Canin Kitten solid dry food and 1 can of soft food, a sample of Castle Bath's tear stain remover (face wash, face soap, and touchup powder) and discount card to purchase more at their online store, and some paperwork (vaccination/health record, contract, ...).
What do I need to purchase before my kitten is ready to come home?
A crate or pet carrier to bring your kitten home in your car, litter box, litter (feline pine is recommended, at least for the first 30 days during the transition to reduce stress), food (Royal Canin brand is recommended, especially the first month or two - if you change brands it needs to be done slowly or that kitten will experience stomach/intestinal issues), food dish, water dish, scratching post, cat toys, comb for longhair kitten, comb and brush for shorthair kitten, and nail clippers. There is a blog post that talks about some of this in depth (as far as products I use).
I am so freaked out about buying a cat off the Internet!
Please ask me for references. Get to know me through email.
ALL INFORMATION ON THIS PAGE IS SUBJECT TO CHANGE AT ANY TIME AS I LEARN AND GROW IN MY HOBBY. FINAL INFORMATION WILL BE DISCUSSED THROUGH EMAIL AND IN THE CONTRACT WE BOTH SIGN.
Contacting Me / Buying a Kitten from Me
Posted by Steph in
About Chustmi, on Friday, July 24. 2015 at
I don't just have kittens around my house to sell, usually, and if I did, they would be found on the KITTENS page. I am a hobby breeder with two litters a year (as you can see from my website). People wait to buy a kitten from me. Usually my kittens are 'on hold', or 'will be available later', or 'not available at this time' before the pictures even get put up on my website. I don't take deposits till the kittens are much older, and proven (not assumed) healthy, but there are people 'in line' for the kittens.
'will be available later' means right now I am not comfortable taking a deposit on a kitten but I will in the future
'on hold' means a family is waiting to adopt that kitten but I have not taken a deposit yet...and if they back out, it will be available again
'not available at this time' means I am deciding if I want to keep the kitten, for myself, for my Cattery, or other reason
So, I just wanted to clear that up.
Please, as a reminder, when you contact me:
1) Introduce yourself. I stopped responding to one liners. Do not ask how much a kitten is and do not ask if I have kittens, and then expect I will answer you when I don't even know who you are. My website is informative. If you do not want to introduce yourself, just look at the KITTENS page and FAQ.
2) If you contact more than one breeder in the same day, or week, and ask me questions and ask for a response or to be put on a list, and then you find a kitten two days later (for example), contact me again....please....and let me know. I can spend 1/2 an hour responding to just one email (and I usually don't do one liners), so to save me time, let me know you are no longer looking for a kitten from my Cattery. Sometimes if months have gone by, because I had no kittens, I might contact you a quick one liner, "Are you still looking?" and then go from there. But, out of respect, just let me know, please.
Thank you!
Steph
"Ace" update
Posted by Steph in
Buyer Updates, on Saturday, June 27. 2015 at
"Cheeks continues to grow and bond with us. He caught his (presumably) first glimpse of a bunny recently. I was able to capture some video just in time before it ran off. We adore him so much!! He follows us around the house much more now, loves to actively play, eats heartily, and if he doesn't initially fall asleep with us, we always wake up to him being in the bed each morning.
We got him a chaise lounge scratching post, which he took to immediately. We've already gotten a bin to contain his ever-growing collection [of toys], but we'll soon have to expand. His favorites are these three fuzzy, green balls. He enjoys batting them around, but is especially fond of carrying them around in his mouth like a dog.
Basically, he's changed our lives and made us so much happier than we could've imagined. He really is such a smart, intuitive, playful, well-behaved, gentle, happy and funny cat. We're lucky to have him."
Two of my Kids and Ace, who has left us
Posted by Steph in
About Chustmi, BC-Feb15, Photos, on Friday, May 8. 2015 at
Ace isn't just loved by me, Ace is loved by our whole family (and friends, too!). Two of my kids are smiling here, right before school, as they hugged Ace for the last time. But...after school they cried. I am surely teaching them it is better to have loved than to not! And the new owner already sent us photos and the kids were very happy to see smiling Ace! (Speaking of photos....I'm adding some to Ace's photo album since I hadn't from ages 10-13 weeks.)
Ace, at 13 1/2 weeks old, has traveled to go to his new home, but he stayed in AZ, only an hour from my home. He was instantly loved.
First Year Photos
Posted by Steph in
About Chustmi, on Thursday, May 7. 2015 at
Contact Form
Posted by Steph in
About Chustmi, on Tuesday, March 24. 2015 at
Looking for people who want...
Posted by Steph in
About Chustmi, News, on Friday, March 20. 2015 at
99.5% people who contact me want exotic shorthair.
I will breed Sadie and Maezey with Donnie if I have interest in both exotic longhair and exotic shorthair.
Contact me!
Oh, and if you aren't sure, have questions, don't know the difference, ... Contact me.
The biggest difference is the length of comb or brush you use! The shorthair can shed; most will shed; some a lot. The long fur can matt if not combed every other day. Shorthair can matt as well. (My three shorthair cats all have different 'types' of fur.) Both need eye care. Nail care. Teeth and ear care. And maybe baths. More info on kitten care page.
Contact me
Product Info & Care of a Exotic Shorthair Cat and Persian Cat
Posted by Steph in
About Chustmi, News, Products/Advice, on Thursday, March 19. 2015 at
DAILY EYE CARE - You can expect to spend 5-10 minutes daily on Eye Care.
Eyes tear every day all day, especially during high activity, and then when it dries it turns to a crusty residue on the fur. If it is not cleaned at least two times a day, the fur around the eyes will get wet and stain and even get crusty; a red color or clear goopy; it will gather and gob up; it can cause eye infections (you get the idea - if not, do a google search about it and see examples). I think if you wash twice a day, you might be able to get away with not using the powder, but with white fur, I'd recommend powdering every day if you want it to look pretty. Items:
Toilet Paper [To absorb and remove tears at eyes - DAB (don't rub) several times a day. Toilet paper absorbs, Kleenex just smears.]
Wash Cloth (Clean unsoftened [no Downy or dryer sheet - it may cause irritation]) and warm plain water on half the cloth [to wash fur around eyes - and then dry lightly with the end of the cloth you did not get wet] NOTE: you will see in breeder-care videos, castlebaths videos, and other places, that they use a cat-safe soap to clean the face....you do not have to do this daily if you have kept up with the fur....that is for extreme cleanup from caked-on stains and tear duct drainage goop. That is why I talk about water. The water is just cleaning a tiny bit of tears from the past 12 hours (i.e. two times a day).
Breeder Care Professional Eye Grooming Powder (breeder-care.com also they are on facebook) + small make up brush (Target - examples: Brush 1823 ELF Eye Crease brush (great for kittens, just right size) and EcoTools Eye Enhancing Duo Set (but I can't seem to find them in my Target anymore - possible equivalent might be the e.l.f. Defining Eye Brush)) [for touchup around the eyes/nose (even around the cheeks/chin/bib due to drinking water stains), helps keep moisture and stains away (or help clean it up if it has already occurred) - a TINY bit once a day is what I use and the container I bought is lasting a LONG time. Do the powder care AFTER toilet paper dab and wash with a cloth and slight rub dry with a dry part of the wash cloth.]
So, I use Breeder-Care. When you buy a kitten from me, I will give you a sample of a different company's powder for you to try out (I'm tempted to not even give it out - it is practically worthless). For me, I've had way more success with Breeder-Care. I actually used Anna's powder on Ace (2015 kitten) and it did NO good at all (even three times a day after washing three times a day with water)....so I washed Ace's face two times a day, then put powder on before bed, woke up next morning to NO red crustiness at all! Really, if you can afford it, get the Breeder-Care powder! It is so worth it, and lasts so long, I'm still on same jar I bought a couple of years ago and have about 1/2 left.
DAILY FUR CARE - You can expect to spend 30-60 minutes daily (or every other day) on Fur Care.
Fur MATTS so easily in the exotic longhair AND exotic shorthair and Persian cat, combing is a must - and exotic shorthair SHED. The greasiest parts of a cat are under their chin, behind their ears, under their chin/their bib, under their legs, and their belly. Be sure to comb there every day. The body I have gotten away with doing every other day. Items:
Whisker City Pet Comb (Whisker City is a brand at Petsmart) [With a long toothed comb, comb entire body, even belly, under legs where matting begins - at least every other day.] There are other combs I have not tried.
Slicker Cat Brush [EXOTIC SHORTHAIR ONLY (brushing longhair could increase matting) - Brush during shedding season often.] There are other brushes I have not tried.
Whisker City Waterless Detangling Cat Shampoo (Petsmart) [Spray on tangled or thick fur AS NEEDED during combing.]
Cat Wipes (Walmart or Petsmart, etc.) [I use them on butts and feet from soft stool / litter box messes, or to calm shedding fur.]
Shaver (or curved ended dull scissors) ONLY IF YOU HAVE EXPERIENCE!!!! I trim the butt fur of my longhair cats about every 6 weeks to reduce stool messes.
WEEKLY AND MONTHLY NAIL CARE - trim nails, usually back nails monthly and front nails much more often. Please get instruction on how to trim nails if you have never done it before.
I do like this article.
This article too.
Whisker City Pet Nail Scissors (Petsmart)
NEVER DECLAW A CAT! Buy (or make) scratching posts and toys and keep the nails trimmed. They like carpet texture or rope or twine. Train them if you find they scratch the furniture or carpet. Pick them up, and move them while they are doing it, to the item you want them to do it on. Also, I find putting a scratching post at ends of couches keeps the cat from scratching on my furniture. Also, many cats like to sleep high, so cat furniture, although expensive, is loved by the cat. The first photo is a favorite of the littlest kittens and Bliss as well
MONTHLY EAR CARE - I wipe inside the ears (not down into the ears!) monthly - several different products or methods, ask vet for advice. I use a 'baby soft toothbrush' to brush off the wax in the UPPER EAR FLAPS ONLY, NEVER DOWN INTO THE EAR!!! PLEASE ASK VET FOR ADVICE or demonstration. There are ears wipes and ear q-tip things you'll see at Petsmart....I have not had success with these items.
WEEKLY/MONTHLY TEETH CARE - brush the teeth, ask vet for advice.
BIANNUAL FUR CARE - you can expect to spend 2-3 hours for one bath and dry.
I recommend a full body bath (with water and pet shampoo) every 6 months. You can take your cat to a professional groomer (one who has had training) or do it at home yourself. I have NO grooming training, just experience and example from my mentor. The information I offer is NOT professional information. I have no training.
Only plan to bathe your cat yourself if you own a pet dryer - do not use a blow dryer that you use on your hair, as it is heat based. A pet dryer is forced air based. A cat can get cold and take a really long time to dry if you don't dry the fur. I recommend a Metro Air Force 2 speed. Do a search on Amazon. There is a cheaper model too, I believe.
So, anyway, the bath can also be done much more often if you wish. When the fur starts to separate and get the curly look, then it is getting greasy (you'll notice this under the legs and then the belly mostly and first). A full body bath can be done in a clean sink; my kitchen sink is big enough. I bleach the sink hours before I do the bath (making sure I get all the bleach off).
Here is what you'll need: Proper drain for your kitchen sink (to catch fur). Nail clipper. Comb (and brush if you are doing a shorthair cat). De-matter comb. Shaver (mustache trimmer and/or pet shaver). Cat toothbrush. Baby soft baby toothbrush. Two full size bath towels, and two hand towels, and a wash cloth. Pet shampoo (Petsmart, for example). Dryer. Eye grooming powder.
Here are the steps I recommend:
(1) Trim all the nails.
(2) Comb your cat's fur, very well. Get all excess loose hair off/out. Do not bath a cat with matts. De-matt the fur first (with combing, with fingers, and with a shaver as necessary - for small matts I use a moustache trimmer/shaver - for larger matts I need a pet shaver usually).
(3) Brush your cat's teeth with a cat toothbrush.
(4) Clean the wax off the inside of your cat's ears (do not go down into the ears - see my notes above under ear care).
(5) With a wash cloth and water, lightly wet the wash cloth, clean your cats eyes (with plain water) and wash her face (with plain water).
(6) Set your cat in the sink. If your cat is skittish and/or wanting to jump away, you can grab the scruff at the back of the neck. One client of mine has used a harness with her Exotic Longhair cats and hooked it to the sink to help her. The more you bathe your cat, the more 'used to' it your cat will be, and thus, hopefully, the more calm. I bathe my kittens several times while they are growing up with me; many of them tolerate their baths very well. With a slow flow of water, warm (check on your wrist), wet the fur thoroughly. Do not wet the head and never wet inside the ears. Use a dry hand towel to dry the face and ears if your cat starts to shake her head and gets wet.
(7) Put shampoo in your hands and lather it in your hands and then work it into the fur - do not put shampoo directly on/into the cat fur (it will be so hard to wash/get it out). Shampoo from neck down. Don't forget between the toes. Do the tail, and then the butt last.) I usually do all the shampooing with only an inch or two of warm water in the bottom of my sink.
(8) With the drain plugged in the bottom of the sink, rinse your cat. I like to use a spray from my faucet instead of the constant flow the whole time, since my kitchen faucet has these two settings. It seems to help get the shampoo out all the way to the skin/base of the fur. Rinse and rinse. Thoroughly rinse to get all the shampoo out. I let my cat soak in the water, a little bit then.
(9) With the drain open, not plugged, rinse again, like above. Rinse and rinse! Get all the shampoo out.
(10) With a wash cloth and water, lightly wet the wash cloth, clean your cats eyes (with plain water) and wash her face (with plain water).
(11) Sometimes I will do the belly and legs and butt a second washing.
(12) Use one towel to wrap your cat in and get as much water out with patting her all around. Then, using the second towel, do it again. Get as much water out as you can before using the dryer. It will go much faster.
(13) Using the pet dryer, dry. You'll notice your cat is dry when, as the dryer blows air on the fur, the fur is no longer curly. It should be straight. When you dry, I recommend drying the butt first, have a dry hand towel ready, around your cat....the cat may pee! Then I dry the belly, legs, etc. Then I do the tail. Then I do the sides and then the back.
(14) Sometimes I will do a quick comb through after my cat is all dry, but totally not necessary.
(15) I use eye grooming powder around the eyes (as noted above under eye care).
With clean up, I make sure to get all the fur out of the drain in my kitchen sink! I then sanitize my sink and around my sink. I get the fur off my towels before washing them in the washing machine.
LITTER BOX - I do like what I use because it keeps that clay dust off my cats fur, and when poured, feline pine pellets have just a tiny bit of pine dust but not that puff of clay dust you get with scoopable clays:
Feline Pine litter pellets - I recommend without the arm and hammer added (So Phresh Odor Neutralizing Pine Pellet Cat Litter from PETCO....I have not used a Petsmart one called "ExquisiCat Naturals Pine Cat Litter" but I think it may be similar to the Petco one I use). I buy at Petco - they seem to be the only ones that carry a brand I prefer now - Target, Petsmart, and Amazon no longer ship or carry what I like. I do not scoop. I slide the litter box back and forth on the floor to level out the litter if the cat has made a pile from covering up the poop. When there is poop, I use a disposable doggie bag (Pet Waste Disposal Bags - Dog Poop Pick Up Bags from Amazon (but Target, Petsmart, or the like have these too)) over my hand, pick up the poop, and pull the bag up over my hand, tie the bag, and dispose outside. I just love not having to scoop. When the litter has turned to mostly pine dust, I empty the litter box all into the garbage and put new in. Sweeping around the litter box helps keep the area clean, but I don't have pine litter tracked through the house. I use an open durable plastic litterbox, jumbo size with high edges (Petco "jumbo" - it is about $20). My picture shows two. I highly recommend two. [Please note, Petco in my area has now changed to a cheaper plastic litterbox for this jumbo size, no longer the durable plastic, so it is now under $10. I am very disappointed.] You can change them out monthly due to needing to wash and bleach and dry them.
FOOD
I use Royal Canin dry kitten food (for under 12 months of age). I don't like to use canned soft food after 6 months of age, because it keeps their stool smelly and more soft and messy on the fur (especially the long coated one). However, I do suggest canned to help reduce fur balls if you find you have a cat throwing up fur balls often. Sometimes, though, gravy has bothered my cats intestines. I serve canned food on a small saucer plate. I also recommend raised food dishes, and definitely stainless steel or ceramic, not plastic. The dishes in the stand below are not the ones I have.
I thought I would add a note about another food I use. It is called Iams Hairball Proactive Health. The reason I started using this was because one of my kittens had consistent soft stools and occasional diarrhea. His fecal floatations came back negative for worms or parasites. He wasn't eating toxins in the house (i.e. plants or people food). There was just no reason. Different vets wanted me to try different things, which were (1) probiotic (2) medications (which had been tried but they wanted me to continue) - I said no (3) referral to internist (I said no - we hadn't tried diet changes - I was insistent that some food would help him (4) different foods (add pumpkin (unfortunately my youngest son has a 99% allergy to pumpkin!) - so no....add fiber (tried Metamucil added to his soft food - helped a little)....tried to take away his gravy soft food - helped a little) .... (Royal Canin (Indoor or Special) - didn't change anything, and then....Royal Canin Gastrointestinal (actually made him vomit and just changed his stool to a different color), and then they wanted me to try a hypoallergenic food (it was expensive and my other cats eat same food (I do free feeding all day instead of meal feeding - so I wasn't quite ready - there was ONE more thing I wanted to try)....Iams Hairball....I read an article (on pandecats.com) that said it can possibly take away soft stools and diarrhea in cats that are otherwise healthy. I was like, OKAY, please please please work. I've battled this for months. And guess what? It worked! Stool is correct color, it is formed and firm, and he's not throwing up. I COULDN'T BE HAPPIER. Also, it doesn't seem to make my other cat's stools too hard (the one that shares a bowl with him and didn't have loose stools before eating Iams Hairball). And, by the way, the cat with loose stools and diarrhea did not have any hairballs to begin with. So, I thought I would share, in case anyone has this issue with any cat they own.
CRATE / CARRIER - I recommend you use a crate or carrier in a car for traveling, even short trips. Just use the appropriate size for the cat: the cat should be able to stand, and turn around, important for longer trips, not just to the vet. It might be good for you to get an airplane approved bag if you think you might ever carry-on your cat to go out of town. I use the SHERPA brand and love the bag!! The second picture below is my actual bag with a kitten in that was at the airport ready to board the airplane:
POPULAR TOYS - These are toys that are popular in my house: Crazy Circle, Cat Tunnel, laser pointer, balls, etc....
CAT BED - You'll notice I left out cat bed....my cats usually do not sleep in them as older kittens or adults, but the small kittens have. Sometimes my cats like to share Jetta's cat bed (I mean dog bed) with her (Jetta is my dog).
PLEASE REMEMBER THESE ARE JUST MY THOUGHTS AND MY USES AND MY EXPERIENCE AND THEY ARE NEVER THE ONLY WAY TO TAKE CARE OF YOUR KITTEN OR CAT. ADVICE FROM A VETERINARIAN, PROFESSIONAL GROOMER, OTHER BREEDERS, AND FRIENDS (AND YOUR OWN EXPERIENCE) ARE VERY MUCH ADVISED!
THESE ARE MY OWN WORDS - DO NOT COPY OR USE THEM IN ANY WAY!
